This summer I was hired by Amnesty International to photograph Roma people from Skadarska street who were resettled from the place were they use to live with their families in modest and unsanitary conditions. They ended up on the street with their families and belongings without any other solution for accomodation.

In Milovan’s village the news about his marriage to Eva the Albanian girl spread very quickly. A friend of his, Miroslav, a 39 year old bachelor was thrilled at the prospect for himself. He was so interested in the idea that he could hardly wait and immediately set the ball in motion so he could grab himself a wife, for him waiting was no option! The two neighbors all packed and ready, set off on the 500km Journey down south to see the Marriage Broker Vera, who has the highest and fasted record in pairing successful matches. Even  if she is also known as being creative with truth as far as money is concerned! Vera had a girl in waiting, though what would Miroslav think and find in this Marriage broker lottery? We will have to wait and see!

Once the neighbors arrived in Albania, Vera took Miroslav with her personal driver in a white Mercedes from Shkodra towards Tirane. About 10 km or so before Tirane they arrived at the house of the girl, the potential new wife and her family. It was a half finished building with no heating inside! Sat in their living room impatiently Miroslav eagerly waiting to get a look at her and then after a few minutes a girl in a bright orange jumper walked into the room with coffee for everyone. She was blond, tall and carried herself with a certain confidence. Miroslavs face instantly expressed that he was taken with the girl, Manjola aged 25.

During the introduction Miroslav said honestly that he was not a rich man. Though that he could promise her father one thing and that was that she would be loved and treated well and live a good life with him in his village. To Manjola’s parents that was the most important thing and also that opportunities of living a happy life far more likely than if she stayed where she was. The girl Manjola had a glowing personally that you could feel while in her presence and I thought to myself that this just could be a very good match and a marriage of mutual respect and real love.

Manjola being of the age 25 and clearly more mature, the final decision was down to her. With my very basic knowledge of the Albanian language I was trying to listen out for “Po” or “Yo” and didn’t have to wait long before the result. It was “Po” meaning yes in Albanian. Manjola instantly wept tears of joy and sadness at the same time realising what a life changing answer she had given! It was her time to fly the nest and a sensitively Miroslav drew his new fiancee toward him in a tight consoling hug. She fell into his arms as she wept until her tears came to an end. As a token gesture Miroslave left a 100e note on the side of his coffee saucer for the family and a further 100e for Manjola and her father. He did this in a subtle humble manor.

Just the way of their body language together made me feel as though they had known each other for a long time. It seems this really was love at first sight.

Miroslav, not being a rich man showed how smitten he was and no expensce was spared as he bought gifts for his new fiancee. He spent 700e on gold jewelry for Manjola. Of course 300e was payed to Vera the marriage broker for her daily fee. Not to mention the 2000e for a successful meeting. As they left each other you could feel the impatience that they had as the wait until Manjola could join Miroslav would be almost unbearable for the both. Miroslav would just have to patient as Manjola would have to wait for her passport and all other necessary documentation before he could take her across the border and to her new home and new life together.

After what seemed like a eternity Milovan got the green light from Vera to say that all is ready and his bride to be awaits him. He organized transport for the next day to Skadar, with Milovan this time round his sister would also be accompanying us with his friend Mliroslav and a driver to take us on our way to Albainia in the white van.

We traveled all night and met with Vera on the boarder with her personal driver Artur. We all went on the the young girl Eva’s house, suddenly realising that the house we had been to before to negotiate was that of her uncle. This house she had actually come to live in only one year erlier. Eva had been brought up in a very isolated village where even a primary school education had never been a option for her! We were sitting in the livingroom with her family when Vera called for Milovan, wanting him to join her outside for a moment to talk. I followed quickly as to not miss anything. She wanted her money but not the 1000 euros that had been agreed on the previous visit,she asked for 2000 euros and swore on her childrens life that was how it had been left!  Milovan’s reaction was desperation as he thought he would not be able to take Eva? After a heated disscution Milovan agreed to pay 1500 euros imiediatly and the next month to close the debt with 500 more eros. Milovan was told by Vera that he would not be able to take Eva until the next day after buying her some new clothes.

So we spent the night at Vera’s house and the morning we went to take Milovans bride Eva. The couple sat next to each other in her families livingroom with their guests around them. She was wearing the clothes bought buy Milovan the day before. On the table was a modest spread of apples, juices and alchohol. Eva looked serious as she was aware that she would be flying the nest forever. The moment before we left the house Vera told Milovan to make a gesture of money but this time to family members, he gave 50 euros to the mother, grandmother and aunt.

Eva’s grandmother was the most overcome by her emotions as she cried! The time had come to leave, on the way to the van Eva with her uncle walked ahead up the pathway.
The new couple sat on the back seats of the van, sometimes I was catching her sneaking looks at her new husband. After many hours of traveling everyone was exhasted. Trying my best to fight against the tiredness, from time to time I would turn to check out the “situation” behind me. Suddenly I woke up after ten hours of traveling, angraly realising I had let myself fall asleep! Had I missed anything important? I turned and looked back and saw the amazing situation that was unfolding in the darkness. So I turned on the small light on the ceiling of the van and took the  picture.

The moment I thought my story had come to the end. There were no new candidates for marriage, but then it happened, a miracle! A new candidate suddenly appeared! That morning I took the very first train from Belgrade to Podgorica arriving to late that night to do anything other than sleep. I awoke nervous but excited at the same time, it was six in the morning and I proceeded to Skadar. There waiting for me in a bar on the boarder was, Vera the Marriage Broker. She had with her the new candidate and his friend. I was on edge I felt a mixture of fear and excitment. Would he let me take photo’s of him, will he like the girl, will the girl like him?My mind was racing! I was busy all the while trying to contain my strong emotions. Fortytwo year old new candidate Milovan from Bajna Basta in Serbia, was looking good, he was polite and thoughtful. Immediately I new this man stood a very strong chance to marry a girl!

Those days in Albania near the border was flood so we where forced to go several kilometers on foot on the railway line.  Than a taxi driver, who works with Vera, drop us to the house of the girl. We where sitting  in a living room for 10 min until the girl with her mother, brother and grand mother has been appeared. 22 years old Eva was sitting opposite of Milovan, and at the moments secretly looking at him with her shiny eyes.  The ”romantic” negotiations has been started. Eva’s family wanted to know what Milovan does,  does he has a house, how big, does he has a car… Luckily Milovan has a house, not one, but two! He has a car as well and he boasted that last year he earned a 5000 euro on raspberry.  From the other side Milovan was concerned only about one thing. Is the girl healthy.  Vera said: ” Yes of course,  I would newer bring you here if she is not… she will give you a birth fast.” His friend Miroljub than quietly told him: “She is 100% virgin, she probably newer left the home.”

Milovan was interested in Eva, he told he likes the girl, but also he wanted to hear the opinion of his friend and me. Eva whispered with her cousin, we could noticed she likes Milovan. But all of us was waiting on grand mother decision.  Vera translated: ”Grand mother said yes”!  Milovan said: ” Ok, lets go now to engage her, why losing the time!  Than he honored Eva’s mother with a 100e and the small boy with 20e. Vera’s wage was 130e.  When we went out Milovan told me: ”I always play on a first card”.

We went to jewelry store where he bough Eva golden ring, bracelet, necklace and watch. The bill was 550 euro.  After we went to a restaurant for a drink behind the corner.

The new couple is now waiting on Eva’s passport and visa for Serbia. It takes 15-20 days and than Milovan will be able to married Eva and take her over the border.

And of course he must not forget to pay to the  marriage broker for successful job.

I Iwas again in Skadar but this time at the place of main marriage broker, Vera. It was very
difficult to get in touch with her, but after many calls I manage to find her.
Next morning I went there by local taxi driver from Podgorica and after couple of ours I
met her in Skadar town. At that moment I did not know where I will spend the night, I thought
she will show me some hotel, but my secret wish to spend the time at her place came truth.
That gave me opportunity to go into her private, family, life. Her fifteen year old sun drop us
by the car to their home.  In the garden in front of their pink house was very live, Vera
was repairing the house and everyone where doing something. I was very welcome at their home,
me as a innocent small girl, who was brave to come there along (that was how they looked at
me). I was taking pictures around, nobody cares. After dinner we went out for a drink in
local bar. In the evening Vera prepared bed for everyone and  in the living room
where sleeping 6 of us. I woke up second, after Vera’s mother and noticed Vera still
sleeping on the couch next to mine. I quite took my loud camera and made a picture of her.
That morning Vera was all the time on the phone. An Albanian man from Kosovo, Ivan, was
coming to find a wife for marriage. Ivan is a teacher who has four children and whose wife
died last year. A thin man with a tie was very self-confident that he deserve
young girl between 25-30 year. We where siting in a cafe waiting that women appear, but she
did not. Vera was vainly trying to get her on the phone. Ivan and his two friends who came
with him as a company where very bored. Vera decided to meet Ivan with another women. We
went to her by Vera’s car. After the narrow bridge a shortsighted Vera stopped. On the crossroads of dirt road a middle age women with a small son on the bicycle suddenly appeared.
We went out from the car. Obviously dissatisfied, after a few exchanged views with unknown
women Ivan turned to me and said on Serbian: “I am not crazy to take this old women and
have another funeral next year, she is fat, she may has diabetes. Look at me, I am fit”.